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Anyone traveling to Brazil for Carnaval and wondering where to go? I highly recommend Recife. Why? You get a wide variety of cultural events and it is all completely free. We had a hard time figuring out where to go since there was so much going on and the schedules (all info, really) was all in Portuguese and lacking in descriptions anyway. So I have compiled a list of the things we saw (with descriptions in English) to aid future travelers.

• Galo da Madrugada: (Avenida Guarapes) Enormous all-day party in the streets with trios electronicos(big speaker trucks) and a huge rooster. Dancing and singing and cocktail slinging (so wear appropriately non-nice clothing). Do not bring anything but a tiny bit of cash. I understand this is what Salvador’s Carnaval is like.
• Maracatu bands: African-inspired drum corps drumming in the streets and elsewhere (particularly noteworthy were Estrela Brilliante and Porto Rico but they were all excellent). Very infectious rhythms make it hard not to dance. Sometimes accompanied by vocals. Just look for “maracatu” on the Portuguese schedule of events.
• Frevo: A music and dance style specific to the Recife/Olinda area, characterized by brass instruments and the dancers with the colorful umbrellas.
• Caboclinos: Dancers wearing enormous colorful headresses dancing to music including flute, drums, etc.
• Parade Street (Polo Agremiaçoes) Festive Pageantry and floats parading down a corridor with bleachers so you can sit and rest your feet but still watch the action. The later in the night, the more packed the place gets. Some nights were Maracatu groups, some nights were Caboclinos, some nights were more like Rio-style samba acts on big floats (including the hilarious topless drag queen floats - yes they have implants and yes I got pictures).
• Opening Night/Closing Night: (Marco Zero, Friday/Tuesday Nights) at a venue with a little bit of everything. Good fireworks shows both nights. Lots of the main concerts were here and there was lots of energy and singing along from the crowd but the concerts tended to not excite us as much since we didn’t know any of the words. YMMV.
• Silencio dos Tambores: (Polo Afro, Monday Night) Maracatu bands playing in the streets and a stage set up with ornately-costumed king and queen characters. Culminates in a lights-out (including the street lights) and moment of silence (hence the name) ceremony honoring the slaves who died in the colonial times of Recife. I highly recommend this one. This venue is a very narrow street that was packed so we didn’t get to see much of the actual ceremony - I recommend keeping an eye on the amount of people here and when they start packing in, get a spot near the stage and hold your ground. Fireworks at the end.

Also some info on buses that may be of use to you budget travelers. If you are staying in Boa Viagem (like we did), most of the buses numbered 30-something (i.e. 32, 33, 36, 38) go down Avenida Domingos Ferreira. If they say Boa Viagem on the front sign you are set. It might take you a couple of trips home to nail exactly at which stop you need to get off, but most hotels and tourist offices have a tourist map so you can figure it out. Much cheaper than taxi rides. Buses into the city for Carnaval events can be caught on Av. Cons. Aguilar. Just ask the driver “Centro?”. You’ll know when you get there because everyone will get off.