saltwatersteve.com/travel

El Nariz del Diablo is a section of train tracks that descend a steep slope between the town of Alausi and the abandoned community of Sibambe by traversing back and forth along a hillside. There are exactly two switchbacks, meaning the train goes in reverse for only one section of track. Lonely Planet described it as, “hair-raising switchbacks”. I’m fairly certain the only thing that happened to my hair is that it got wet from the rain.

The “train” we rode was actually not a train but a bus mounted on a train chassis. When I saw the steering wheel in front of the driver, I knew this was not a real train. Not a true experience - this section of track is only used for tourists who want to say they’ve ridden the Devil’s Nose.

Now, they did let us ride on the roof of the train for an extra dollar, which makes the experience a bit more interesting. However, the same tracks serve the section between Alausi and Riobamba, which we also rode. This trip I highly recommend - very scenic and there are steeply sided sections of track just as “hair raising” as the Devil’s Nose section.

The recommended way to accomplish riding the Devil’s Nose section is to get on at Riobamba and stay on past Alausi to Sibambe, then return. If you do it this way, I think you might be disappointed since the first section would be better than the second. We got on in Alausi, did the Devil’s Nose section down and back, then rode from Alausi to Riobamba - a trip that was frustratingly disappointing at first, then rewarding later. I recommend it, but it might be tough to do it our way if you get there in the high tourist season.

If you do go, make sure you get off in Alausi and go through the doorway marked “Boleteria” (Ticket window), up the stairs and look at the telegraph office across from the stairs - pretty cool to see telegraph equipment that is (at least appears to be) still used.